Once again, my soul whispers,
“Explore the world”; thus, have to descend on the path again. After brief
arrangements, it was time to wait for. And, the day came sooner than expected.
I start my journey again to Kashmir—the Paradise in the Earth. I have never
travelled to the core of Kashmir valley; only seen images and dreamt through
the tales. What a wonderful place it is—the land of beauty! Losing into
reverie, I remember not when I have fallen asleep. I wake up with an unusual
announcement in the flight, “Please do not open the window until asked for.” I can
understand it to be a special security advisory. The flight is about to land at
Srinagar. I start dreaming again. Kashmir, security, beauty, so more, all
jumbling up inside my small brain. While I engage myself in getting out of
those entangled thoughts, my flight has already landed.
Coming out of the airport, I find the
smiling face of Kazimbhai. “Madam, Namaste!”, he moves on with my luggage once
he has finished his brief welcome address. We drive through the city—the road
sketching through nicely arrayed colourful houses—and every house has a garden,
smaller or larger, adorned with vibrant roses in prime of their bloom. Rose, a simple
name, that has fascinated me since my childhood. But it couldn’t have meant
closer to its name unless I were in Kashmir. I have been in delight of seeing
them in abundance in so colourful, youthful and fragrant varieties. The name gets
its true meaning as the beauty honouring its beauty unfolded.
After a quick round of breakfast at a
roadside tavern, we move on. The army vehicles are passing by more often.
Again, the word “security” start reigning in my mind. We continue to ride with
security interrupting my brain and our movement as frequently as our saner
senses can tolerate. I have travelled so many times to Ladakh—covering almost
every corner of it from every possible road—and even traversed through the long
border road along Pangong lake via Chusul and Shayok valley beyond Nubra
towards Siachen with special permits, but could never make it through Srinagar
side. We shall be going to Sonmarg today.
A faint rain has started drizzling.
White clouds are getting smoky beyond the window pane. The earth is hiding
behind an opaque mist. Kazimbhai says, “Look, madam, Dal Lake!” A dense mist
blankets the surface of the lake. A little ahead, it is little clearer and I can
see the lake being cleansed; removing plants and weeds. After a brief pause,
raining has again been harsher. Nothing is visible, as if the world has shrunk
inside the car and we are driving from nowhere to nowhere without any purpose
of experiencing anything, even the time. And, with time frozen within the
darkness of shrunken entity, we have driven past miles after miles to reach
Sonmarg a little later than expected.
Sonmarg, a small mountain town, with
more cars than houses tucked in between the sleeves of a verdant mountainous
valley, has been little brighter. The daylight is faint enough though the
invisible sun has enough life before retiring for the day. We enter into a
small restaurant; it is late lunchtime. The owner is someone between a youth
and a man, with an elegant smile rippling upon his breaded face. He has a hotel
too for the night to spend. It is indeed a good option for me as I have the
plan to stay at Sonmarg after a long hectic journey from Kolkata since early
morning. But he informs that Zojila pass will be blocked if snowing continues
further. I have planned to cross Zojila a day after to reach Dras, but the
information makes me to decide to to move without a halt at Sonmarg. Kazimbhai
says it may be quite late to reach Dras as it is already 3.30. We are instantly
out on the road—snow and rain together climbing down from sky. As we drive a
little away, some snags develop in the car; it will be risky to take a high-altitude
journey without getting it repaired. It takes another hour and half to get
things done. In the month of June, day is longer enough in Kashmir valley, and
on the way, we enjoy the view of the distant valley of Baltal, the entry point
for Amarnath cave trekking.
It is around nine, when we have
finally reached Dras—the high security military base in Kashmir. I have never
expected a very welcoming scene in Dras as it always happens in highlands of
the Himalayas; the shops, hotels, houses are all closed and sleeping in
darkness. Only option left to us is to knock the Government’s door. The Tourist
hut is open, but none is found anywhere. After toiling efforts, we can see a trembling
light approaching us through the darkness of the long corridor. The shadow
comes closer, opens the window and pops his head out and asks, “Who?” “Tourist,
want rooms.” Everything gets arranged soon. A boy with chubby cheeks gets in with
a water jug. He keeps it on the table and smiles. Silently asks, “Food?” I am delighted
to have such an unexpected boon. “Yes, whatever!” The boy says, “Roti and tea?”
“Okay, for me two roti and tea, ask the driver about his choices.” “Kiun baki
log nahi khayenge?” “Hum akele hai” A 20 seconds pause has been long enough.
Then, he smiles again, “Koi dar nahi. Hum hai na. Jorse awaz denese hum aa
jayenge.” Dras is famous for its cold weather. After having roti and tea, I
slide into two layers of quilt and blankets.
The dawn breaks at usual time.
Opening the window, I can now feel the intensity of the gusty cool wind. There
has been nothing significant change in weather. It is still raining
incessantly. I see Kazimbhai cleansing the car. I come out on the frozen road.
Kazimbhai and I got into a teashop, just opened. I need to explain my plan to
him as we have not discussed it in details before; I have not booked anywhere.
I propose if we move to Kargil today, but not following the usual Highway; we
shall take the road on the left from Ghangrail, which runs through the Aryan
villages till Batalik. There are not much of staying options in that route; may
only get some village accommodation.
We take the Highway to roam around
Dras town and villages around. We drive to Mushku valley. It is that untrodden
valley, where Kargil war started in 1999. The valley has been silently laid
beneath a tall mountain, Tiger Hill. The mountain got the fame through
newspaper and television. Through the valley, another road stretches to Gurez
valley in northern most LAC of Kashmir, but has been closed due to security
reasons. The valley is fascinatingly beautiful. Verdant field has been
activated by the presence of women reaping vegetables. I get off and walk towards
them. There have been no expressions on their faces. But I must to speak to
them. How are they? I seem to be arriving from an alien land. What an amazement
in their eyes; or is it a vacant look that I have misperceived to be amazement?
Two ladies are coming down the hills. I keep waiting. Once they have come
nearer, I smile. They smile in return. It prompts me to ask, “Where have you
been coming from?” They replied patiently, “Up, there.”, showing the top of the
mountain. Wild mushrooms grow there. They have collected a few. My natural
question, “How are you all?”, stupefies the environment and their faces seem to
have hidden behind a curtain. After a long pause, closing the eyebrows, one of
the ladies responds, “We are not well at all.” We are so accustomed to listen
to mindless utterance of “We are fine” in the cities, something different
answer makes me shudder. She continues, “Nothing will be good for us ever. We
are destined to live like this. Our children will also live like this.” No, her
voice is not trembling. She was talking like a machine, unperturbed by cold wind
and mind. “Why; what troubles are there now?” She vacantly looks up to the sky
and says, “It’s raining, madam.” Yes, the sky has become densely dark and
clouds hovering close to my nose. She asks, “Where have you come from?”
“Kolkata” A long batch of children is treading on the narrow mountain path;
their uniform tells that they are going to school. It starts raining heavily.
We cannot move farther, so has to take the reverse route.
Once back in the car, my thoughts
have still been lying in the wide meadow of Mushku valley. Kazimbhai breaks the
silence, “None can feel their pains. They stay so close to the border. Fear is
their closest neighbour. They are the sole witnesses of Kargil war. But who
listens to them? Their testimony carries no worth anywhere. They live like this
and die like this. When shells of the intruders started landing during 1999
war, some people died in the field, a few more were injured. Army started
evacuating villages. Run, run; but where will they go. Someone has ailing
mother in home, children away to school, men working up in the hills; how could
they alone flee? Shells hammering; yet was it easy to abandon a home for so
many years of toils and memories? None cared for who has lost what, whose son
died, whose mother couldn’t leave; children couldn’t understand what was
happening and what would happen. Amidst all such events of ignored loses, the
village was emptied. Madam, are you listening?” I cannot bear it anymore,
“Then?” “What more, the war began; there had been news and debates in the
country and world. Who had time to see what happened to them? They were all
ravaged.”
My thoughts have travelled to a
different world. Is country just a piece of land? Right only? We are now on the
road that climbs straight up the mountain from Dras to reach Sankoo in Suru
valley via a high-altitude pass. It crosses the village and the lone bridge
over an arrogant stream and we are now steadily driving up. On the other side
of the scape, I can see the Tiger Hill, Tololing, Mushku valley. The silver
stream of Dras is flowing little far. The earth, my dearest blue planet, is so
beautiful as I can now see her revolving alike the little elegant ballet dancer
with colourful dress. Over the top of Tololing mountain, the curtain of clouds
is being gradually lifted to let the late rays of sun shine it gloriously. We
are move up, circling around a lone mountain; on one side of path lies a
scattered hamlet, classified down with houses on the slope and enclosing it are
the steps of cultivable land. The sowing has started. The children are walking
back home. A lady is moving up; holding a rope fastened to two calves in one
hand and her daughter in school uniform in the other. I waive hands. The kid
also waives her hands. She proudly tells that she reads in class 2. She looks
at her mother when I offer a few toffees; her mom nods and the smile upon the
face of a little girl has wiped all smoky veils from the face of the valley and
it is shining in a dazzling golden light. The Tololing mountain starts smiling;
the saplings of those newly sown meadow begin to dancing. The azure sky starts
showering colours in abundance upon the valley down. Fondling with fistful of
such amazing colours I move on; the meadows have grown fresh grasses—perfectly
suiting for grazing now—and pink, yellow, blue, purple tiny flowers have covered
the slopes of the mountain. My eyes and my camera have no time to relax. Suddenly
on a turn, the road vanishes. The giant tale of a glacier has peacefully laid
upon the invisible road. The dazzling sunlight has made its surface sufficiently
intense to cause blindness. The warmth of the day has generated numerous streams
of melting snow—turquoise to blue as they turn into water—moving downwards.
Kazim says, “The streams, you see, irrigate the land in natural way; Yeah
kudrat ki den hain.” There is no possibility to move farther. We take the reverse
route, touching the nearby hamlet, known by a sweet name, ‘Monmon’, to return
to Dras again for overnight stay.
The morning in Dras breaks in and its
turns into a day soon while rain doesn’t agree to stop. The inaccessibility of
yesterday’s route has already impacted the plan I had in mind and needs to be
recast. I think it’s better to move to Kargil first. On way lies the Kargil War
Memorial. The car has not been well in health since we left Sonmarg. It needs an
expert consultation. I am now free to roam around my very familiar Kargil town
on foot.
Kargil is neither a big nor a small
town. Raised from the bank of river Suru,
Kargil stands arranged in layers—from lower bank to the upper slope of the
mountain. It looks deserted today. Shops and markets are closed. People are seen
walking silently. I come out to the main market road. The Army and Police
patrols are on. A long queue of vehicles is stationed along the road. Whatever
a few numbers of cars moving are carrying something like a Govt notice pasted
on the windshield. I am negotiating to understand why it is so unusual in my
known space of Kargil. I move ahead and ask the policeman on duty if the market
is closed today. He only whispers that it will be opened an hour later.
I sit on a vacant staircase in front
of a shop—trying to understand things. One vehicle passes through. As it leaves,
I notice something on the clean face of the metal road. Blood! Yes, it is blood,
I am sure. Something like feathers or cotton soaked in fresh blood is confronting
the blackness of the road. My nerve is straightened up. Along the blood-line I start
walking; keeping myself alert as it is expected in an always charged environment
there. The road takes a right turn some hundred metres ahead. On the left side
at the bend, one medical camp has been set up. Two big drums are placed in
front of the camp—closer to it, I find both are full of blood-soaked cotton balls.
A man passes by holding the hand of his son, perhaps—whispering “Sovanallah”.
The Masjid is just a little ahead. There is a large gathering in front of it.
The vehicles are coming up to this point. A few people are carrying a young
bright boy; completely drenched in blood. Once he is put into a stranded jeep,
it speeds fast. And, motionless I stand there to witness repetition of same
events in numerous successions. Amidst the coming and going of cars and people,
I decide to return. Coming back to hotel, I ask the owner about the events I
have witnessed. He speaks on the death of Hazrat Ali, the son-in-law of Nabi
Hazarat Mohammad. So long a past! Still, people remember the pain, anguish, the
brutal events of life; and they share the pain, silently in self-flogging. The
deeper of pain of thousand years that they so soulfully remember and pay
tribute. The pain has journeyed through centuries, through veins of body,
emotion and faith. The agony of losing the near one, the dearest one, the deep
wound of losing the core of love; it erases the wounds and blood of
self-flogging. It is not harming self, but sharing the pain that their dearest
one endured. My own Tagore, can you tell once again, “Where and when shall the
stream of pain will cease to flow? What lies at its end?”
I wonder how patiently, solemnly,
heartily and silently such a mass ritual has been performed; sans much ado, sans
noise, sans lustre. Only hearts sing the dirge.
(to be continued)